Saturday, 1 November 2025
Wuthering Heights (1845)
Tuesday, 14 October 2025
Forgotten Ruins of Heimschule Nickenich
Nestled in the rolling hills of the Eifel region, not far from the tranquil waters of Laacher See, the ruins of Heimschule Nickenich stand as a silent testament to a history both rich and turbulent. What was once a thriving Catholic boarding school has now become a hauntingly beautiful lost place, drawing hikers, explorers, and history enthusiasts alike.
The story of the Heimschule began in 1927, when it was founded as a Catholic educational institution, meant to guide students from their earliest secondary years all the way to their Abitur, the prestigious German high school diploma. By Easter of 1928, the school welcomed its first class, known as the Sexta, and over the following years, it expanded, embracing a rigorous academic curriculum alongside practical education. Students engaged in gardening, fieldwork, and hands-on workshops, fostering both intellectual and physical growth.
But history had other plans. The school’s vision of a full-fledged educational institution was short-lived. The economic struggles of the Great Depression made expansion difficult, and when the National Socialist regime took power in 1933, financial support for denominational schools dried up. By 1934 or 1935, the Heimschule was forced to close its doors, its grand educational ambitions unfulfilled.
Its closure, however, did not mark the end of its use. Under the Nazi regime, the building was repurposed, first as a home for girls completing their mandatory Landjahr, a rural service year aimed at instilling a strong work ethic and nationalistic ideals. Later, during the chaos of World War II, the site took on a far more ominous role. In 1944, a V1 military unit, Regiment 152 Wachtel, moved in. The surrounding forests became a launch preparation area for the infamous V1 rockets, the so-called "revenge weapons" deployed by the Nazis in their desperate attempts to turn the tide of the war.
Today, the Heimschule is nothing more than a skeletal relic of its past, perched on a plateau at the crossroads of Landesstraße 116 and Kreisstraße 57. Time and nature have reclaimed what once was a place of discipline and learning. Trees push their roots through cracked floors, vines creep up crumbling walls, and the wind whistles through shattered windows. It is both eerie and beautiful, a place that feels frozen in time.
Despite its decay, the ruins have not been forgotten. They sit along the scenic Traumpfad Pellenzer Seepfad, a 16-kilometer hiking trail that winds through some of the most breathtaking landscapes in the Eifel. Hikers and photographers alike are drawn to the site, captivated by the way history and nature intertwine so seamlessly.
However, for those who venture close, caution is advised. The building, abandoned for decades, is in a precarious state, with weakened structures and unstable foundations. In recent years, access has reportedly been restricted, and visitors should respect any barriers or warning signs. Still, even from a safe distance, the Heimschule Nickenich offers a glimpse into a past filled with ambition, loss, and transformation.
For those willing to explore, the ruins stand as a reminder of the way history leaves its mark—not only in books but also in the landscape itself. They tell a story of education interrupted, of war’s far-reaching impact, and of how even the most carefully laid plans can be undone by forces beyond our control. In their silent, crumbling state, they invite us to pause, reflect, and imagine the lives that once passed through their halls.
Wednesday, 1 October 2025
The Fairy Faith in Celtic Countries (1911)
In the moorlands between Trossachs and Aberfoyle, a region made famous by Scott's Rob Roy, I have seen atmospheric changes so sudden and so contrasted as to appear marvellous. What shifting of vapours and clouds, what flashes of bright sun-gleams, then twilight at midday! Across the landscape, shadows of black dense fog-banks rush like shadows of flocks of great birds which darken all the earth. Palpitating fog-banks wrap themselves around the mountain-tops and then come down like living things to move across the valleys, sometimes only a few yards above the traveller's head. And in that country live terrible water-kelpies. When black clouds discharge their watery burden it is in wind-driven vertical water-sheets through which the world appears as through an ice-filmed window-pane. Perhaps in a single day there may be the bluest of heavens and the clearest air, the densest clouds and the darkest shadows, the calm of the morning and the wind of the tempest.
At night in Aberfoyle after such a day, I witnessed a clear sunset and a fair evening sky; in the morning when I arose, the lowlands along the river were inundated and a thousand cascades, large and small, were leaping down the mountain-highlands, and rain was falling in heavy masses. Within an hour afterwards, as I travelled on towards Stirling, the rain and wind ceased, and there settled down over all the land cloud-masses so inky-black that they seemed like the fancies of some horrible dream. Then like massed armies they began to move to their mountain-strongholds, and stood there; while from the east came perfect weather and a flood of brilliant sunshine.
And in the Highlands from Stirling to Inverness what magic, what changing colours and shadows there were on the age-worn treeless hills, and in the valleys with their clear, pure streams receiving tribute from unnumbered little rills and springs, some dropping water drop by drop as though it were fairy-distilled; and everywhere the heather giving to the mountain-landscape a hue of rich purplish-brown, and to the air an odour of aromatic fragrance.
On to the north-west beyond Inverness there is the same kind of a treeless highland country; and then after a few hours of travel one looks out across the water from Kyle and beholds Skye, where Cuchulainn is by some believed to have passed his young manhood learning feats of arms from fairy women—Skye, dark, mountainous, majestic, with its waterfalls turning to white spray as they tumble from cliff to cliff into the sound, from out the clouds that hide their mountain-summit sources.
In the Outer Hebrides, as in the Aranmore Islands off West Ireland, influences are at work on the Celtic imagination quite different from those in Skye and its neighbouring islands. Mountainous billows which have travelled from afar out of the mysterious watery waste find their first impediment on the west of these isolated Hebridean isles, and they fling themselves like mad things in full fury against the wild rocky islets fringing the coast. White spray flashes in unearthly forms over the highest cliff, and the unrestrained hurricane whirls it far inland. Ocean's eternally murmuring sounds set up a responsive vibration in the soul of the peasant, as he in solitude drives home his flocks amid the weird gloaming at the end of a December day; and, later, when he sits brooding in his humble cottage at night, in the fitful flickering of a peat fire, he has a mystic consciousness that deep down in his being there is a more divine music compared with which that of external nature is but a symbol and an echo; and, as he stirs the glowing peat-embers, phantoms from an irretrievable past seem to be sitting with him on the edge of the half-circle of dying light. Maybe there are skin-clad huntsmen of the sea and land, with spears and knives of bone and flint and shaggy sleeping dogs, or fearless sea-rovers resting wearily on shields of brilliant bronze, or maybe Celtic warriors fierce and bold; and then he understands that his past and his present are one.
Commonly there is the thickest day-darkness when the driving storms come in from the Atlantic, or when dense fog covers sea and land; and, again, there are melancholy sea-winds moaning across from shore to shore, bending the bushes of the purple heather. At other times there is a sparkle of the brightest sunshine on the ocean waves, a fierceness foreign to the more peaceful Highlands; and then again a dead silence prevails at sunrise and at sunset if one be on the mountains, or, if on the shore, no sound is heard save the rhythmical beat of the waves, and now and then the hoarse cry of a sea-bird. All these contrasted conditions may be seen in one day, or each may endure for a day; and the dark days last nearly all the winter. And then it is, during the long winter, that the crofters and fisher-folk congregate night after night in a different neighbour's house to tell about fairies and ghosts, and to repeat all those old legends so dear to the heart of the Celt. Perhaps every one present has heard the same story or legend a hundred times, yet it is always listened to and told as though it were the latest bulletin of some great world-stirring event.
Over those little islands, so far away to the north, out on the edge of the world, in winter-time darkness settles down at four o'clock or even earlier; and the islanders hurry through with their dinner of fish and oat-bread so as not to miss hearing the first story. When the company has gathered from far and near, pipes are re-filled and lit and the peat is heaped up, for the story-telling is not likely to end before midnight. The house is roomy and clean, if homely, with its bright peat fire in the middle of the floor. There are many present—men and women, boys and girls. All the women are seated, and most of the men. Girls are crouched between the knees of fathers or brothers or friends, while boys are perched wherever—boy-like—they can climb. The house-man is twisting twigs of heather into ropes to hold down thatch, a neighbour crofter is twining quicken root into cords to tie cows, while another is plaiting bent grass into baskets to hold meal. The housewife is spinning, a daughter is carding, another daughter is teazing, while a third daughter, supposed to be working, is away in the background conversing in low whispers with the son of a neighbouring crofter. Neighbour wives and neighbour daughters are knitting, sewing, or embroidering.
Then when the bad weather for fishing has been fully discussed by the men, and the latest gossip by the women, and the foolish talk of the youths and maidens in the corners is finished, the one who occupies the chair of honour in the midst of the ceilidh looks around to be sure that everybody is comfortable and ready; and, as his first story begins, even the babes by instinct cease their noise and crying, and young and old bend forward eagerly to hear every word.
From: Evans-Wentz, W.Y. (1911) The Fairy-Faith in Celtic Countries. Oxford: Clarendon Press.
Monday, 1 September 2025
Natural Deoderant Formula
30 drops Rosemary
30 drops Lavender
30 drops Frankincense
15 drops Lime
15 drops Cedarwood
Natural Aromatherapy Rollerballs
Lavender, Clary Sage, Sweet Majoram, Clove Bud, Neroli (12 drops each in 50ml carrier oil).
Lavender is the obvious cornerstone of any relax blend. Renowned for its gentle sedative properties; it’s a go-to for calming the mind; relieving stress; and even helping to ease anxiety-driven physical symptoms; such as headaches or muscle tightness. Lavender doesn’t just calm the mind; it soothes the skin and supports gentle breathing; which is why it’s such a versatile oil in both emotional and physical relaxation.
Clary Sage works on a deeper; hormonal level; making it particularly useful if tension is linked to hormonal shifts; think PMS; menopause; or general hormonal imbalance. It has a unique euphoric quality; helping to lift mood while simultaneously grounding excess nervous energy. This makes it invaluable when stress or anxiety feels especially overwhelming or tangled up with emotional sensitivity.
Sweet Marjoram steps in with its warm; comforting nature. Often thought of as a "muscle oil;" marjoram is particularly good at easing physical tension; especially tight shoulders; neck tension; or tension headaches that stem from stress. It’s also traditionally associated with encouraging deep; restful sleep; which is why it’s such a perfect match for a formula designed to relax both body and mind.
Clove Bud might seem like an unusual choice in a relaxing blend; but it brings a subtle warming spice that helps improve circulation and ease aches and pains that arise from held tension. It also offers a sense of grounded comfort; like being wrapped in warmth; which can be especially helpful for people who feel "cold and tense" when they’re stressed.
Finally; Neroli adds a touch of elegance and emotional depth to the formula. Extracted from the delicate blossoms of the bitter orange tree; Neroli is deeply soothing for the heart and spirit; often recommended for anxiety; grief; and emotional overwhelm. Its aroma alone seems to slow the breath and invite a sense of safety and calm; making it particularly valuable when stress feels emotionally heavy or overwhelming.
Together; these oils form a well-rounded Relax formula that addresses stress on multiple levels; calming the nervous system; softening muscular tension; gently supporting hormonal balance; and offering emotional comfort. It’s suitable for anyone experiencing general stress; anxiety; tension headaches; sleep troubles; or emotional overwhelm. It can be used in a diffuser; diluted into a massage oil; added to a bath; or even applied to pulse points for moments of stress during the day.
Pain/ Muscular
Rosemary, Peppermint, Lavender, Ginger, Ravensara (12 drops each in 50ml carrier oil).
Hyssop, Eucalyptus, Frankincense, Rosemary, Aniseed (12 drops each in 50ml carrier oil).
Tea tree, Lavender, Chamomile, Yarrow, Geranium, Carrot Seed (10 drops each in 50ml carrier oil).
Natural Beard Dye Formula
2 parts Amla
1 part False Daisy
1 part Neem powder
12 parts Henna
4 parts Indigo
Use the base initially for 20-30 min, and reapply if necessary for stubborn grey hairs.
Main Dye
2 parts Amla
1 part False Daisy
1 part Neem powder
8 parts Henna
8 parts Indigo
Amla, known more formally as Indian Gooseberry, plays an important supporting role in the mix. It doesn’t dye hair directly, but it helps the other herbs; especially henna and indigo; bind more effectively to the hair. Amla also has the handy effect of slightly cooling and darkening the resulting colour, softening henna’s tendency toward bright copper tones. With its richness in Vitamin C and antioxidants, amla doesn’t just enhance the dye, it also strengthens the hair and improves overall beard health. In the blend, amla typically makes up about ten to twenty percent of the total, enough to boost performance without overpowering the dye itself.
Then there’s False Daisy, known in Ayurvedic circles as Bhringraj. This is another herb traditionally associated with darkening hair and keeping greys at bay. It’s valued not only for the colour support it offers but also for its ability to nourish the actual hair shaft, leaving the beard softer, stronger, and with a natural shine. In a well-balanced formula, False Daisy would make up somewhere between five and fifteen percent of the blend.
Neem powder is often included too, not so much for its colouring ability but for what it does for the skin beneath the beard. Its antibacterial and anti-fungal properties help keep the skin calm and healthy; useful if the wearer is prone to irritation or beard dandruff. It can even help the dye absorb more evenly. That said, neem is powerful stuff, so a little goes a long way; five to ten percent is usually plenty.
The two stars of the show are, of course, henna and indigo. Henna is the foundation of the dye, providing rich reddish tones that cling tenaciously to the hair. It’s a fantastic conditioner too, adding body and softness as it works. Depending on the final shade desired, henna might make up anywhere from thirty to forty percent of the blend; more if you want a warm auburn result, less if you’re after darker tones.
Indigo, by contrast, is all about the blues and blacks. It doesn’t work well on its own, but layered over a henna base, it deepens the colour into darker browns and, if used generously, full black. For a typical dark beard dye, indigo would also hover around thirty to forty percent of the blend, paired closely with henna.
A balanced formula for a dark brown or black beard might end up looking something like thirty-five percent henna, thirty-five percent indigo, fifteen percent amla, ten percent False Daisy, and five percent neem. This gives a blend that not only covers greys and colours the beard, but actively cares for it too.
It’s worth noting that the actual process of application is just as important as the blend itself. In many cases, the best results come from applying henna first, rinsing, and then following with indigo. This two-step process locks in the colour more effectively, particularly if you’re aiming to cover grey hairs. Amla, with its cooling effect, can also be mixed directly into the henna paste to tone down any unwanted brightness.
Together, these herbs create a beard dye that doesn’t just stain the hair but nurtures it, leaving it strong, healthy, and naturally coloured. If you want, I can also walk you through the exact mixing process, including tips on what liquids to use (like tea, coffee, or lemon juice) to get the best result for your particular shade.
Thursday, 14 August 2025
Pizza Physics
I had reservations about writing a pizza blog. I mean, you make a base, you dress it, then you put it in the oven and ta-daaaar. But a degree of Wissenschaft comes into play when things get multi-storey. I make these magnificent architectural creations in three phases:
1. Make the base and add the tomato sauce with some of the juiciest/ moist ingredients (like pineapple, tomatoes, sweetcorn, prawns, etc). This will warm up the pizza and allow excess water to escape by evaporation so it doesn't lead to an icky puddle leaking out like an old lady's piss pants at the end. If you just plopped everything on all at once, the lower and most central components might not heat up in time whilst the external part of the pizza will be burned. 10-15 minutes should do it, depending on your heat setting and the location of your pizza in the oven.
2. Meanwhile roast the toughest and most fibrous vegetables (like broccoli, peppers, onion, mushrooms etc) and let them break down and get some time to cook in the oven before you add them to your heated base. 20-30 minutes should do it. Additionally, adding roasted vegetables allows thorough cooking, and improves their flavour.
3. Finally, after heating together the ingredients from step 1 and 2 above (not so they burn, but enough to get them steaming and wilting down) add the final layer of ingredients that usually don't take so long to cook (e.g. pepperoni, salami, feta, mozzarella, cheddar, anchovies, red kidney beans, etc). That way everything should come to fruition at just the right time. And the right place.
I'm not here to tell you what to put on your pizza, or for how long. It's a goddam democracy and you can do what you like. But I can tell you a judicious amount of pre-cooking is a rewarding endeavour when you are contemplating an ascent to your own personal Eiger of pizza achievement. Good luck and may the Pizza Gods (who were Roman obviously) go with you.
Friday, 1 August 2025
German Beer Face-Off: Bitburger vs Vulkan vs Kölsch
Germany’s beer culture is legendary, and for good reason. Among its vast brewing landscape, Bitburger, Vulkan, and Kölsch stand out—each offering a distinct character, production story, and drinking experience. Whether you’re a curious beer lover or a seasoned enthusiast, here’s how these three compare.
Bitburger: The Classic German Pilsner
Style: Pilsner
Origin: Bitburg, Rhineland-Palatinate
ABV: ~4.8%
Production: Bitburger has been brewed since 1817, and it proudly adheres to the Reinheitsgebot (German Beer Purity Law). Its brewing process focuses on top-quality ingredients—local water from the Eifel mountains, Hallertau hops, and malted barley. Bitburger even developed its own yeast strain, ensuring a consistent taste.
Character: Aroma: Crisp, floral hop notes with subtle malt sweetness. Taste: Dry, with a balanced bitterness and light body. Finish: Clean and refreshing—textbook pilsner precision.
Vibe: Bitburger is a staple in Germany’s pilsner culture. It’s not flashy, but its reliability makes it perfect for any occasion, from summer BBQs to after-work drinks. Their famous slogan, "Bitte ein Bit" ("A Bit, please"), speaks to how ingrained this beer is in German society.
Kölsch: Cologne’s Golden Gem
Style: Kölsch
Origin: Cologne (Köln), North Rhine-Westphalia
ABV: ~4.8%
Production: Kölsch is brewed exclusively in Cologne, protected by a geographical indication similar to Champagne but ironically is famously a low-gas beer. It’s a hybrid brew—top-fermented like an ale but cold-conditioned like a lager. This unique process results in its distinctive character: clean and crisp, yet subtly fruity.
Character: Aroma: Soft fruit notes (apple, pear) with delicate maltiness. Taste: Light-bodied, gently hoppy with a touch of sweetness. Finish: Smooth and slightly dry.
Vibe: Kölsch isn’t just a beer; it’s a culture. In Cologne’s famous Kölsch bars, it’s served in slender Stange glasses, constantly refreshed until you say stop. It’s the ultimate social beer—easy-drinking and designed for long conversations.
Final Verdict
Bitburger - Style: Pilsner, Key Strength: Classic, dependable quality, Best For: German beer purists
Vulkan - Style: Craft Lager & More, Key Strength: Innovative with Eifel character, Best For: Craft lovers & adventurers
Kölsch - Style: Hybrid Ale-Lager, Key Strength: Light, social, ultra-drinkable, Best For: Long nights out with friends
In Short: Grab a Bitburger for that no-nonsense pilsner fix. Explore Vulkan if you’re feeling curious and crave something craft-inspired. Sip on Kölsch if you want a beer that’s all about social vibes and local culture.
Monday, 14 July 2025
Mosel Boat Tour: Cochem to Beilstein
A boat tour on the Mosel River in Cochem is a magical experience, offering a perfect way to soak in the beauty of one of Germany’s most picturesque regions. Cochem, a charming town nestled along the Mosel, is surrounded by lush vineyards, rolling hills, and medieval castles, creating a stunning backdrop as you glide down the river.
As the boat sets off, you’re immediately greeted with breathtaking views of Reichsburg Cochem, a fairy-tale-like castle perched high on a hill. Originally built around the year 1000, it was destroyed by French troops in 1689 and remained in ruins for centuries before being lovingly restored in the 19th century. Now, with its neo-Gothic architecture, richly furnished rooms, and sweeping views of the Mosel Valley, it stands as a striking landmark. Some boat tours even offer the chance to visit the castle, stepping back in time to experience its grandeur firsthand.
Drifting along the calm waters, the landscape unfolds with steep, terraced vineyards that produce some of the finest Riesling wines in the world. The Mosel Valley’s beauty changes with the seasons—lush green vines in summer, golden hues in autumn, and a crisp, misty charm in the cooler months. Many tours include stops at local wineries where visitors can sample the region’s celebrated wines. Meanwhile, onboard bars offer cool beers, refreshing ices, and even pizza, making the journey as relaxing as it is scenic.
A little way south of Cochem, the boat reaches Beilstein, often called the "Sleeping Beauty of the Mosel." This quaint village, with its cobbled streets and medieval charm, feels like a step back in time. Overlooking the town is Burg Metternich, a ruined castle that adds to the romantic atmosphere. Though partially in ruins, it offers spectacular views of the river valley and surrounding vineyards.
Whether you’re cruising in the warm afternoon glow or beneath the golden hues of a sunset, a boat tour on the Mosel is an unforgettable way to experience the region. The gentle rhythm of the water, the ever-changing landscape, and the historic charm of Cochem and Beilstein come together to create a truly memorable journey.
Tuesday, 1 July 2025
The Wonder (2022)
The Wonder (2022), directed by Sebastián Lelio and based on Emma Donoghue’s novel, is a haunting, slow-burn psychological drama that grips you with its unsettling atmosphere and richly layered narrative. Set in 1862 Ireland, the film revolves around a young girl, Anna (Kila Lord Cassidy), who, it’s claimed, has not eaten for months yet remains alive and well, leading to widespread fascination and suspicion. A nurse, Lib (Florence Pugh), is sent to observe her, tasked with determining whether this is a miracle, a hoax, or something more sinister.
The beauty of The Wonder lies in its ability to create a sense of claustrophobia and tension from the simplest moments. The rural Irish setting, with its mist-covered fields and stark interiors, adds a weight to the already heavy atmosphere. Lelio’s direction is meticulous, focusing on the subtle interactions between the characters, while also drawing attention to the larger societal and religious forces that are at play in this small community. The cinematography is breathtaking, but it’s the sound design—the quiet creaks of a wooden house or the soft murmur of voices—that truly elevates the film’s sense of dread.
Florence Pugh delivers yet another stellar performance, embodying Lib with a quiet intensity. She brings depth to her character, whose own troubled past slowly unravels over the course of the film. Pugh’s subtle shifts in expression and her interactions with the villagers, particularly Anna’s mother (Elaine Cassidy), are riveting. It’s a performance that demands patience from the audience but rewards it with a deeply human portrayal of a woman searching for truth amid an ocean of superstition and fear.
The story’s central mystery—the “miracle” of Anna’s survival—raises poignant questions about faith, power, and the human need to control the uncontrollable. The Wonder doesn’t offer clear answers. Instead, it invites the viewer to reflect on the nature of belief and the lengths people will go to uphold it, even when faced with evidence to the contrary. The film’s pace is deliberate, requiring patience, but it’s also beautifully crafted, with each scene building toward a revelatory conclusion that is both satisfying and disquieting.
However, the film’s slower pace may be a point of contention for some. While the slow-burn tension works for most of the film, certain moments feel drawn out, and there’s a sense that some viewers may find themselves impatient for the story to move forward. The tension, though palpable, can sometimes feel as though it’s spinning its wheels before reaching its emotional payoff.
In the end, The Wonder is a film that demands reflection and a willingness to sit with its discomforts. It’s not a traditional mystery or thriller, but rather an exploration of human nature and the often dangerous grip that belief can have on people. With a standout performance from Pugh, evocative cinematography, and a story that lingers long after the credits roll, The Wonder is a meditative, unsettling experience that doesn’t give easy answers—but perhaps that’s exactly the point.



























































