Friday, 14 November 2025

Waldsee Revisited

It was an evening made for remembering. The air was cool but soft, the kind that carries the scent of damp earth with a distant hint of pine without any chill. The sun had just begun its slow descent when we arrived at Waldsee Rieden, a small lake tucked between forested hills in the Eifel. It was our first wedding anniversary; twelve quiet, bright months that had passed in a blink; and we wanted to spend it somewhere still, somewhere that felt both remote and welcoming. And Waldsee is like an old friend. 

We started our walk as the last of the afternoon light slipped through the treetops. The path wound gently around the lake, the water glinting through the trees like a sheet of burnished glass. Every few minutes, the woods would open up to reveal another view: reflections of sky and forest rippling together, the faint sound of ducks across the water, the occasional rustle of leaves as a breeze stirred through the branches. It was peaceful in that rare, almost cinematic way; the kind of peace you don’t realize you’ve been missing until you stand in it. 

The meandering path curved around a small jetty where the lake shimmered with the last amber light of dusk. The air had grown cooler, and the silhouettes of the trees began to deepen into indigo. A few early stars blinked awake above the water. At the head of the lake we were greeted by the full splendour of the Beaver Supermoon, poking optimistically through the nick of the hills, inviting an early photograph. 

By the time we reached the far side of the lake, the lights of the Seehütte Restaurant were glowing warmly across the water. It looked like a postcard scene: soft golden light spilling from the windows, reflections trembling on the lake’s dark surface, the sound of walkers faintly drifting from the terrace. We crossed the small wooden bridge and stepped inside to the scent of herbs, roasted vegetables, and something faintly smoky. 

Dinner was a wonderfully indulgent celebration in the quiet of the restaurant. Riesling from the nearby Ahr valley beckoned, crisp and bright, perfectly chilled. After a light garlic bread starter, I had Hüttenpfanne served in a pan, with generous pork fillets, buttered spaetzle, creamed mushrooms, and hollandaise sauce and gratinated cheese. Every bite seemed to hold the earthy, honest essence of the place. This was accompanied by a locally brewed Eifelbrau Landbier, whose mellow malt and subtle hops made it the perfect companion to the Hüttenpfanne. 

Through the restaurant’s wide windows, the last of the daylight faded into the dark mirror of the lake. Candles flickered on the tables, their reflections dancing on the glass, and for a moment everything; the warmth of the room, the enthusiastic hum of nearby diners, the quiet rhythm of the water outside; felt perfectly poised under the guiding light of the rising moon. 

When dessert arrived; a monumental chocolate sundae with a stracciatella chaos of chocolate ice cream, with chocolate sauce and whipped cream. Pretty much that did for me, and I abandoned the notion of a rich Amaretto coffee and instead opted for a cleansing green tea to settle down any excess, content just to sit and watch the reflections move slowly across the water. 

As we finally stepped outside, the air was cool and scented with petrichor once more. The lake was utterly still, the Beaver Supermoon hanging low above it, silver light tracing the surface where we had walked just hours before. Hand in hand, we stood for a while in silence, listening to the gentle night sounds of the forest. There was no need for words; just the quiet certainty that this place, this evening, would linger with us long after we returned home. 

Our first anniversary wasn’t ostentatious. It was something better; simple, heartfelt, beautifully grounded. A walk through the woods, a meal by the water, and the comforting realisation that a loving marriage, much like the lake at dusk, grows ever deeper and more reflective with time. 

Here is the Seehütte website:
https://seehuette.de/speisekarte/  

And here is the menu in English: 
https://seehuette.de/wp-content/uploads/2025/09/Menu_Herbstsaison-2025-Eng.pdf 

















Saturday, 1 November 2025

Wuthering Heights (1845)

A perfect quote from Emily Brontë's Wuthering Heights that vividly describes the Yorkshire moors is:

"Gimmerton chapel bells were still ringing; and the full, mellow flow of the beck in the valley came soothingly on the ear. It was a sweet substitute for the yet absent murmur of the summer foliage, which drowned that music about the Grange when the trees were in leaf. At Wuthering Heights it always sounded on quiet days following a great thaw or a season of steady rain. We could hear at all times the distant, soft echo which but for the hilly terrain, and the folds of the valley, would have reached us in a stormy rush. One may guess the power of the north wind blowing over Edge, by the excessive slant of a few stunted firs at the end of the house; and by a range of gaunt thorns all stretching their limbs one way, as if craving alms of the sun."

This passage beautifully captures the wild, windswept nature of the moors, where the land is shaped by the relentless forces of weather and time. Walking the Wuthering Heights Walk in West Yorkshire, one can see the same gnarled trees, bent by the wind, and hear the distant rush of streams in the valleys.

At Top Withins, the ruined farmhouse often linked to Brontë’s novel, the full force of the north wind can still be felt, much like in the passage. Further along, Bronte Bridge and waterfall offer a gentler contrast, their soothing sounds reminiscent of the beck’s "mellow flow" in the valley. To walk this landscape is to step into Brontë’s world, where the moors are not just a backdrop but a living, breathing presence, shaping the characters and their fates.

Below I include details of a lollipop circular walk I had planned to visit Top Withens and Bronte Bridge & Waterfalls, from the quietude of Gorples Reservoir Car Park and along the Pennine Way, but alas it was not to be and like Heathcliff, I remain a broken, tormented soul forever unfulfilled and longing for my emancipation in this bleak landscape.  








Photo Credits
Top Withens: https://www.visitbradford.com/things-to-do/top-withens-p1622601
Bronte Waterfall: https://live.staticflickr.com/3952/33665427922_248aa81e9c_b.jpg
Bronte Bridge: https://thirdeyetraveller.com/bronte-waterfall-walk/