Holkham
Pinewoods is a National Nature Reserve, managed by Natural England, almost dead
centre of the North
Norfolk
coastline. It is essentially a band of managed sand dune & plantation sandwiched
between a vast line of open exposed beach and farm land barely reclaimed from
the salt marshes, a process which began in the seventeenth century. For such a
small nature reserve, it is impressively biodiverse, with many internationally
important species of wading birds. This arrangement of land management is
fairly common for this part of the world.
The
plantation of holm oak and fragrant pines was planted in the nineteenth century
to stabilise the dune, provide a wind break from the beach (winds can be violently
excoriating when whipping up the sand), and to prevent inrush of sand onto
farms. The plantation has gracefully reached maturity and adds an exotic
horticultural sense of curiosity to the reserve, with hollows, hides, quiet
contemplative corners and occasionally gnarled features or grotesquely deformed
trees amongst the regularity of the military stands.
I did an
East- West clockwise circular walk of the plantation, recommended by David
North in his book Wilderness Walks.
This provided a very pleasant start to the walk, walking into gentle afternoon
sunshine, with dappled glades and impressive pine in silhouette, and then rounded
the path to walk along the beach and strandline for the big views of the finale,
which was pleasantly devoid of people for long stretches. I also took a detour
from the book to visit the highest dune promontory on the range, which afforded
stunning panoramic views of miles of coast and farmland. It only added a mile
or so to the walk, and made an interesting panopticon from which to eat a late
lunch. The weather was sunny, kindly breezy, with high altitude ice providing a
fresh, ozone imbued haze.
The most
engaging feature I discovered was a pond called Salt Hole. It had previously
been an inlet for sea water prior to the earthworks of human reclamation when the
untamed dunes were mobile and only occasionally gave way to marshes, but the
pond eventually became cut off from the sea. Now moribund, with the darkness of
the plantation between it and its mother, Mor, it still drew up salt water from
the water table; an ancient longing for the succour of saline like a foetus
extending its umbilicus into the Earth. Still brackish, Salt Hole demonstrates
a remarkably constant pH, temperature, and salinity in a defiance of
homeostasis. It supports life, but sea dwellers like anemones and gobies. water
rail and little grebes, fringed by a crown of reeds. Although I didn’t see any
water rail, I could hear them as I walked by, making indignant calls like
startled piglets to my footfall.
“Where the wings of the sea- wind slacken,
Green lawns to the landward thrive,
Fields brighten and pine-woods blacken,
And the heat in their heart is alive;
A land that is thirstier than ruin;
A sea that is hungrier than death;
Heaped hills that a tree never grew in;
Wide sands where the wave draws breath…”
By South Utsire
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